Since the last post, I have closed in the bottom, removed staples and sanded. The last photos show the hull with a seal coat of epoxy.
Fiberglass cloth up next!
 From the bow looking aft, the last of the full length strips.  Transom looking forward. I am starting another Salish Coastal Rowboat this week! As I work on the instruction manual, I realize that some more photos would be helpful, plus I want to build with staples and construct the deck a bit different. So I have the strips made, and have set up the strongback. The picture below shows the first forms set up and the cleats attached to the strongback every 12 inches to take the rest.  Each form is attached to a 12 inch riser aligned with a horizontal datum line and the centerline and then screwed to the cleat.  All the forms are attached, and shear clamps are stapled into the notches made for them on the forms. We don't want the hull glued to the shear clamp or the forms so we cover them with masking tape.  Now we can staple the first strips on the boat, The staples are set through strapping tape to make them easier to remove later.  I just finished the third prototype. It came in at 73 pounds fully rigged, using 5mm strips and 4 oz cloth. This version has a slightly narrower beam at 30 inches and I peaked the deck a bit more to shed water and make the hatch seal better. I have had proper drawings made, including full size pdf's of the stations and bow form and am working on a building manual for release later.  The first version of the Salish was a bit high volume for my liking, so I brought the height down and built another. The result is lighter, 68 pounds fully rigged. I intend to sell the first, it would make a great touring boat, with a bit of extra capacity for camping gear at a cost of about 20 pounds of extra wieght.
 The stern looking forward. The center deck is sloped aft, to clear any water that comes aboard and is about 3 inches above the design waterline; just below the bottom of the transom. The footwell has a slope at the aft end so that the surge of the boat under oars will "slosh" most of the water out of it. If that doesn't work I may have to fit a venturi bailer.  The bow eye is abs pipe just aft of the inner stem and is supported by an end-pour of thickened epoxy strong enough to tow the boat under any circumstances.
 The deck has been glassed inside and out, and today I put the two halves together. The joint is along the sheerline, and is fastened temporarily with screws until the epoxy cures. I also cut a hatch into the foredeck to access the floatation and storage there. Three bulkheads separate the watertight compartments, and they will all have access ports.   The deck is built by turning the hull with the forms still in place. I used staples for the deck build, and pulled them before sanding.
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AuthorRick Crook of Oyster Bay Boats Pender Harbour BC Archives
May 2024
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